TromboneChat

Hey guys,
I've been having some issues with my horn for the past few years and I'm finally overcoming my stubbornness to get it fixed. I had an Edwards bass from I believe 2003, dual axial, with the metal miniballs, I believe OEM. Some of them have been seized up for a while now, which has been making my linkages pretty loud since it's missing that axis of rotation. I've tried Hetmans light, heavy, and linkage oil, but to no avail. Any thoughts of how to get these moving again or any source on getting replacements?

You can get them from Edwards if you need replacements.

One of those little ultrasonic baths (sized for jewelry cleaning) if you already have access to one?

The rod ends are pretty cheap though.

I do this with Edwards miniballs, old Bach ball and sockets and my euph rotory valve ball and socket.
Put a think layer of Vaseline around the joint.
Hit it with a match or lighter just enough to melt the Vaseline.
wipe off the excess.
This get thick lube in the joint without taking it apart. 

Mine came with a rubber O ring on one side. Did you try Hetmans "Ball Joint"?

You ideally use three hetmans for a rotor:

The light or medium that goes on the rotor itself

a spindle/linkage/bearing oil that goes on both spind ends (under the cap and the stop arm spindle) which you suck into the bearing by pulling on the valve slide.

Ball joint oil

This is why I don't prefer minibals...hard to adjust.  I've had limited success tapping the loose ones together in a mandrel to minimize noise, less luck loosening the overly tight ones.

It's easiest to just replace them, gets pricey on a 5 valve tuba when 3 or 4 are bad...

"This is why I don't prefer minibals.."

Are we talking "actual", German made Minibals, or copies as used by some manufacturers? There is a difference. I wouldn't use anything "other" than genuine Minibals.

M

...are your linkages connected correctly?
The miniball arms need to be connected correctly...
There is a slight bend the the miniball arm that should rotate in the direction the valve moves. If installed backwards it will not move correctly 

Sam

Quote from: Horn Builder on Yesterday at 10:54 AM"This is why I don't prefer minibals.."

Are we talking "actual", German made Minibals, or copies as used by some manufacturers? There is a difference. I wouldn't use anything "other" than genuine Minibals.

M

Edwards, Bach, Conn, some tubas...Never really saw a name on them, but I don't order them either.

Quote from: bassboneman on Yesterday at 02:58 PM...are your linkages connected correctly?
The miniball arms need to be connected correctly...
There is a slight bend the the miniball arm that should rotate in the direction the valve moves. If installed backwards it will not move correctly 

Sam

Bends in the actuating arm are typically to get over the valve spindle/stop arm.  If the attachment point is past the end of the stop arm screw the it is unnecessary.

"Edwards, Bach, Conn, some tubas" 

That's the point. Some manufacturers use OEM Minibals from Martin Seybold (Conn for example) Some others do not, and the quality is not as good. If the rod end is not stamped "MINIBAL", then it's not the real deal.

FWIW.
M

I seen a horn that the guy used miniballs from the hobby shop that are used on model airplanes. They did not seem right. Kind of fly by night if you ask me. 

I seen a horn that the guy used miniballs from the hobby shop that are used on model airplanes. They did not seem right. Kind of fly by night if you ask me.