TromboneChat

I've had so many questions about this that I decided to post instructions.  I attached a PDF with these instruction plus pictures.

Loosening stuck mouthpiece parts:
 
You need a rawhide or wood mallet and a 9/16" box-end wrench for large shanks, or 1/2” for small shanks.  14mm and 13mm box-end wrenches will also work.
 
For the rim, one of two methods may work:
Tap around the top surface of the rim - sometimes that's all that's needed to loosen it.  If that doesn't work, hold the mouthpiece in your left hand with the rim facing away from you, and with the mallet hit the right edge of the rim downward with a glancing blow.  That puts force in the unscrewing direction.  Now turn the mouthpiece slightly and hit it again. Keep doing that until it loosens.  You might have to hit it pretty hard.  The wood or rawhide has enough friction to do the job but it won't hurt the plating.  Rubber mallets just bounce, plastic and anything harder can dent it.  Only use wood or rawhide.
 
For the shank, put the box end wrench on the hex.  Hit the opposite end of the wrench with the mallet, in the correct unscrewing direction. (Normal threads, turn left to loosen)
 
IMPACT, not brute force, is what works.

A little bit of Teflon tape on the threads will keep it from sticking.  Oil or grease doesn’t really help.

Very good instructions Doug!!  This should be "stickied" on the top of this heading!

I always recommend a bit of paraffin or wax on the threads.


Thanks!

Eric

I'm going to "sticky" this topic.

Amen on the Teflon tape!!! Now my DE parts come apart by hand, with hardly any force required. Stuff is cheap, too, you can find a roll for anywhere from 50 cents to $1.50.

Would this method of using teflon tape be safe for removable leadpipes?

It should be "safe" for anything with threads.  You can tighten it and it's still easily removeable.

Quote from: WaltTrombone on Nov 26, 2012, 02:26PMAmen on the Teflon tape!!! Now my DE parts come apart by hand, with hardly any force required. Stuff is cheap, too, you can find a roll for anywhere from 50 cents to $1.50.

Only issue for me is that most of the common tape is 1/2" width (12 mm) while I'd really like it to be 1/4" width (6 mm) which fits the threads better.

Awesome, I'm excited to see the results!

Quote from: BGuttman on Nov 28, 2012, 11:58AMOnly issue for me is that most of the common tape is 1/2" width (12 mm) while I'd really like it to be 1/4" width (6 mm) which fits the threads better.

With my mouthpiece at least, the tape that sticks out once you reassemble it is easily peeled off and discarded, leaving the threads covered just fine.

Quote from: Doug Elliott on Nov 28, 2012, 11:55AMIt should be "safe" for anything with threads.  You can tighten it and it's still easily removeable.

I learned something today.  (now I can relax the rest of the day! <g>)

A little google shows Teflon tape is commonly used in place of antiseize compound in a variety of applications.  I found examples on muzzle loaders, shotgun choke tubes, aircraft oil coolers, bicycle frames, boats, etc.  I've been a fanatic about never assembling threaded fasteners without some kind of lube, but the Teflon is FAR less messy and seems to work as well. 

Only thing to watch out for is the service temperature.  Teflon has a limit somewhere around 400C.  Not a problem for mouthpieces, but some other applications may not work that well.  Rocket boosters as an example

Quote from: BGuttman on Nov 29, 2012, 08:54AMOnly thing to watch out for is the service temperature.  Teflon has a limit somewhere around 400C.  Not a problem for mouthpieces, but some other applications may not work that well.  Rocket boosters as an example

Is one safe with hot jazz?   

I have a slightly different technique that works on my Doug Elliott and Warburton parts.

I put the part of the mouthpiece with the female end under hot water, and the part with the male end under very cold water, and because of the expansion/contraction of the metals, the two parts unscrew.

Works for me every time. No tools except for a rubber pickle jar opener, just in case.

 

Quote from: JazzPro on Feb 27, 2013, 08:25PMI have a slightly different technique that works on my Doug Elliott and Warburton parts.

I put the part of the mouthpiece with the female end under hot water, and the part with the male end under very cold water, and because of the expansion/contraction of the metals, the two parts unscrew.

Works for me every time. No tools except for a rubber pickle jar opener, just in case.

 

I was just thinking about this. Using rubbing alcohol on the part to be cooled might work, too. My father once showed me how to use it to help remove screws with stripped heads from metal enclosures such as lawn mower blades.

Here's a handy trick for lead pipes:
I use my Berp to remove my lead pipes. Just wrap it around the end of lead pipe without the screw and twist while pinching the Berp tight.

got a  mpc  stuck in an adapter  --truitt used  mallet w mpc in a lead  block  -mpc  puller  didnt work

Thanks for the Teflon tip.

Seems to me the best way to not have it stick is not to stick it in wrong. Gently insert the mpc, turn it about 1/4 turn (as if it were threaded) to remove, unthread.

If you have not a mallet or other tools...try this.

While holding the receiver side of the horn in your hand, place ice on the mouthpiece.

Since brass has somewhat intense thermal properties, the mouthpiece will contract quite nicely and pop out in short order.

If you have not a mallet or other tools...try this.

While holding the receiver side of the horn in your hand, place ice on the mouthpiece.

Since brass has somewhat intense thermal properties, the mouthpiece will contract quite nicely and pop out in short order.