TromboneChat

What is the proper way to deep clean valve casings on a euphonium at home? Is it just soap, water, and a casing brush? Can something more abrasive be used like how the inside of outer slide tubes are swabbed with Hope's brass polish?

I use cheesecloth on a short cleaning rod. I wouldn't use anything close to abrasive.

grey scotchbrite (ultra fine). not any other color.

Thanks for both of your quick responses. I'm now concerned I got my terminology wrong and wanted to clarify. By casing, I mean the tube that the valve goes inside (is that the right term). On the valve itself I'm assuming just soap and water and light brushing? And then for the tube, either swab with no chemical abrasive or use the ultra fine scotchbrite?

Soak a soft cloth in isopropyl alcohol on a cleaning rod and swab the casings. If you don't have a cleaning rod, a 1/2" wooden dowel can work. You can also wipe the valves down with it.
The isopropyl alcohol will cut through any old oil or crud. Just be sure to let it dry before re-oiling.

casing is the right term. You'll have to cut a piece of the scotchbrite pad to go in. You can use it on the piston itself as well, just be gentle with it.

Do not use scotchbrite on your pistons and casings......... Please.

Valves are fit to a very tight tolerance where surface finish matters, and you should not be using something that will both loosen the tolerance and change the surface finish... Wipe your valves off, swab the casings, make sure there is no dust/debris remaining on either, and put the pistons back in with oil. If you still have issues beyond that, take it to a repair tech.

bbocaner wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2023 8:42 am grey scotchbrite

hard pass

Thank you Dave.

Please don't use scotchbrite on your casings or pistons.

Thank you everyone! I have a student who has an audition coming up and doesn't have time to get it to a tech beforehand. So, I just wanted to make sure he tried everything that he safely could to get his second valve to cooperate. Fingers crossed it will be fixed with some swabbing and re-oiling.

If it has old sticky oil, you have to get that all off. Mineral spirits should be safe (unless one of the techs here thinks different.) Soap and water will get the crud off but not the oil layer.

(Based on experience with an old but good quality trumpet. I cleaned and oiled without improvement; a little mineral spirits and reoiled, and they were quick again.)

My experience with sticky pistons is that a common cause is debris in the keyway of the casing or the little key that sticks out of the valve. A careful cleaning with a cotton swab followed by a wipe with a microfiber cloth (to remove any cotton left behind) and then a good oiling specifically of the keyway helps a lot.

Much respect to the professionals who have advised against using scotchbrite, but it has been recommended here by instrument makers and professional technicians before, and I have seen it in use at Shires and other manufacturers. Certainly be careful with it, but it does a really good job and I've seen no ill effects from it. The grey stuff won't affect the finish or loosen tolerances at all.

ScotchBrite is good if there is some corrosion. If the piston is shiny you don't need the ScotchBrite. Note that the gray ScotchBrite is around 1200 Grit and should leave a very shiny surface.

BGuttman wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 4:25 pm ScotchBrite is good if there is some corrosion. If the piston is shiny you don't need the ScotchBrite. Note that the gray ScotchBrite is around 1200 Grit and should leave a very shiny surface.

I haven’t seen 1200 grey. I’ve seen 1200 white.

I stand corrected.

bbocaner wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 3:52 pm Much respect to the professionals who have advised against using scotchbrite, but it has been recommended here by instrument makers and professional technicians before, and I have seen it in use at Shires and other manufacturers. Certainly be careful with it, but it does a really good job and I've seen no ill effects from it. The grey stuff won't affect the finish or loosen tolerances at all.

I worked at Shìres for several years. They're not using scotchbrite on valves. An abrasive will absolutely remove material, even 6000 grit micromesh is removing material. There are plenty of techs that use aggressive methods and seem to get plenty of business. Caveat lector.

timothy42b wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 6:26 am If it has old sticky oil, you have to get that all off. Mineral spirits should be safe (unless one of the techs here thinks different.) Soap and water will get the crud off but not the oil layer.

(Based on experience with an old but good quality trumpet. I cleaned and oiled without improvement; a little mineral spirits and reoiled, and they were quick again.)

Yes, solvents like mineral spirits, alcohol, or certain thinners are excellent for removing gummed up oil/grease without damaging the metal. I do this on every horn I work on - you'd be surprised what comes off even after a thorough cleaning.

I am both an instrument maker, and trained professional tech. Scotchbrite is not a recommended product to use on pistons or casings. Ever.