TromboneChat

I just replaced the slide bumpers (felts) in this used horn I got. I'm guessing they'd never been replaced in its 45 year history. I finally broke down and bought tool that Feree's makes, some felts, and swapped them out. The slide is in pretty good shape, but now that it doesn't go CLANK in 1st position and the slide lock fits right, it's like night and day. I should've bought the bumper tool a long time ago--neglected slide bumpers are common on every used horn I've bought.

What are some other relatively cheap home fixes y'all have found that give good bang for their buck?

quiethorn wrote: ↑Wed Feb 09, 2022 5:06 pm I should've bought the bumper tool a long time ago

Yes, or save $20 and make your own One angled cut, then take a notch out to make the 'tooth'. Deburr, and you're done. K&S brass model-makers' tubing is ideal, and easily found. 21/32" OD is perfect for bass/large tenor, and works on most smaller stuff too; 19/32" if you want a dedicated small bore tool.

In answer to your question:

- paying attention to valve alignment

- Ultra-Pure Heavy tuning slide lube for slides that really ought to be refit and are prone to stuttering/jamming

Replacing rotor bumpers.

ithinknot wrote: ↑Wed Feb 09, 2022 5:31 pm

quiethorn wrote: ↑Wed Feb 09, 2022 5:06 pm I should've bought the bumper tool a long time ago

Yes, or save $20 and make your own One angled cut, then take a notch out to make the 'tooth'. Deburr, and you're done. K&S brass model-makers' tubing is ideal, and easily found. 21/32" OD is perfect for bass/large tenor, and works on most smaller stuff too; 19/32" if you want a dedicated small bore tool.

In answer to your question:

- paying attention to valve alignment

- Ultra-Pure Heavy tuning slide lube for slides that really ought to be refit and are prone to stuttering/jamming

This assumes I already have the tools to make things and a garage/basement to store said tools in...

A $25 borescope camera that attaches to your computer USB port can be a godsend for rotor valve alignment, along with an X-Acto knife and an O-ring to cut up.

A small screwdriver set can be used to tighten up screws that loosen.

You can store all of these in the accessory pocket of a case.

quiethorn wrote: ↑Wed Feb 09, 2022 6:31 pm tools to make things and a garage/basement to store said tools in

In this case, a junior hacksaw and some sandpaper are all you need

Best thing I did to improve my playing had nothing to do with a horn. I got a set of glasses focused for reading the music at around 36 inches. Hard to play the correct note when you don't see the difference between an F or an E.

Not exactly a fix, but just taking a few minutes every couple of days to clean the slide. I run warm water through it, cover one side to make a slush-pump, swab the outer with the cleaning rod and wipe the inner, then re-apply the lube. Takes less than 5 minutes and the slide is always slick.
Also, taking a bit more time to clean the slide using mild detergent and a snake, air-drying, and stabbing as above before switching horns and storing for awhile. The valve gets fresh oil, and the tuning slides are rinsed out, dried, and lubed. I can pull down a horn after sitting for months, lube the slide, and it's ready to go.

Have a skilled tech drill out your rotary valve ports (regularly rotary valves only). Not every horn needs it, but the tech can identify any "oval" properties and drill them out round. Did that to one .525 bore I had and what a difference, to both open and closed valve sides. It was a handmade German instrument too. Not expensive to have done.

Spare water key corks.

If you want to afford them (I think every brass educator should have them):
—mouthpiece puller
—mouthpiece shank truing tools, along with a lesson from a qualified tech about how to use it correctly

A proper music stand.

Not a folding wire stand but a real stand that can hold multiple books. One that doesn't take two hands to adjust the height of.

walldaja wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:43 pm Best thing I did to improve my playing had nothing to do with a horn. I got a set of glasses focused for reading the music at around 36 inches. Hard to play the correct note when you don't see the difference between an F or an E.

A rechargeable LED stand light should be part of your kit. Quite cheap now.

walldaja wrote: ↑Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:43 pm Best thing I did to improve my playing had nothing to do with a horn. I got a set of glasses focused for reading the music at around 36 inches. Hard to play the correct note when you don't see the difference between an F or an E.

Same here. It's really easy. Just tell your eye doctor what you want and they'll make you a prescription. I ordered the glasses from Zenni's and got 2 pairs for $20. It made a world of difference being able to see the music in sharp focus..

Not sure if these are small changes, my 112 bass with
lightweight slide was a choking point. So I bought 62 H slide, swapped 112 H original leadpipe over to 62 H slide, and Voila' air hog central, loving it with the Greg Black 0 g bored to .323. Hitting notes I didn't know I had up and down.
Anyone know the dimensions of the original Conn112 leadpipe verses the C leadpipe. Swapping them over worked like gangbusters. The heavier slide is conducive for a 10 inch bell section.
Oh, the horn is used so, someone bored the f attachment out, beyond .594. I not mad at it though, gives me more articulation options and phrasing diversity. I feel like I could juxtapose this set-up against custom basstrombones.

Just what I've tried and what worked over the years.
All models:

Learn to play with tuning slide pushed in as far as B natural allows. Improves everything, free.

Heavier grease on slide lock, prevents buzzing sound.

Enough tuning grease on tuning slides, prevents buzzing.

Oil valves regularly, prevents corrosion and mineral buildups.

Don't get chemical acid cleaning for instrument - free, prevents rotor core from being worn down. This is actually even lower than free, if you think about it.

Clean slide tubes with dish soap and warm water and a brush snake regularly, free.

Learn how to disassemble and reassemble rotor correctly (free) and do this annually. Clean rotor gently, and clean F tubes like you would the hand slide.

Invest in the correct rotor, bearing, and ball joint oils and use them regularly. ~$20

Thin amount of tape or damping near bell brace stops buzzing caused by loose solder. Basically free.

Yamaha Bass (not Yeo model), or other models that don't play nice with you in general:

Teflon tape on mp shank so it sits 1" into the leadpipe. ~$3 this can drastically change the blow of the horn, often for the better.

Damp the bell throat with electricians or duct tape (tightly, but over a thin rubber mat cut to shape to protect lacquer) if the horn could use more resistance and "front". Not popular and raises eyebrows, but works. Works very well on a bass that is stuffy in the valve register.

Heavy valve caps, similar to damping bell in some ways.

Add a counter weight, see above.

Conn 36H:

Cut cylindrical length of tuning slide 3/8" on both sides and play with it pushed all the way in. Improves instrument's partials and intonation.

Use a mouthpiece with the proper tighter backbore and throat for the alto.