How to polish mpcs to be really shiny?

[quiethorn]

Is there a way to polish a mouthpiece so it's as shiny as the day it was produced? Toothpaste removes the corrosion on old mouthpieces usually, and I don't like to do anything more abrasive than that, but is there anything that can make an old mouthpiece have that brand new shine?

[Burgerbob]

Brand new? No. Any plating will get micro scratches over time. You could potentially buff those out, but odds are you'd just go through all the plating in order to do so.

Replating could be an option.

Personally... mouthpieces still work just fine in almost any condition. Function over form.

[Matt K]

I use Wrights silver polish. At least I think I do. I haven't polished a piece in ages. It usually makes them pretty shiny afterwards.

[norbie2018]

Silver polishing cloth. Lightly mist the mouthpiece with water, wipe with the inside cloth, then buff with the outside cloth. I've always had great results.

[bimmerman]

silver polishing cloth or polishing wipes work wonders; I think I bought some off of amazon that work great at de-crapifying a tarnished mouthpiece.

[Briande]

Toothpaste

[bigbandbone]

First clean it well. For the shank use a mouthpiece brush. For the cup use a mushy mixture of backing soda and water on my finger tip. Rinse well and dry completely inside and out. Put a buffing arbor in your bench motor and screw on an UNSTITCHED chamois wheel. Polish with green rouge. To avoid finger prints I usually put a mouthpiece trueing tool in the shank end so I have something to hold on to.

[Doug Elliott]

Every time you polish it you are removing silver. Especially if you use toothpaste, which is more abrasive than it needs to be for silver polishing purposes. Keep it clean and use a silver polishing cloth if you must. Polishing too many times will eat through to brass and you don't want to do that.

[harrisonreed]

Polishing cloths ruined all my mouthpieces from when I was in high school. Silver polish is OK with the soft sponge that comes with it, but the only time I ever use it is if the shank has tarnish building up on it.

The best method is the old baking soda, hot water, aluminum foil trick. Doesn't remove any silver.

But yeah, the silver specific polishing cloths tore up the silver around the room and left micro abrasions everywhere. It looked shiny but my lips started breaking out and I had no idea why.

[FullPedalTrombonist]

If I absolutely must polish a mouthpiece ( some foundation problems lead to high humidity in one end of the house where I also had some mouthpieces stored in one of those rooms and a lot of tarnish built up over a short time. Looks beautiful, though ) I use an automotive scratch remover medium. It’s extremely low abrasion and feels like a loose, non-oily moisturizer. I also use it if I get green build up on any unlacqured contact points.

[Matt K]

Has anyone (Doug maybe you'd be best position to chime in particularly) laquered over the exterior finish of a piece? Its probably the thickest part of the instrument anyway so I don't imagine lacquer causing serious problems with acoustics. We obviously still lacquer parts of the instrument that come into contact with our body much more (e.g. neckpipe, cork barrel) so I can't imagine it causing any serious trouble. Of course, not talking about the rim, just the under part. It would wear out on the shank as far as the insertion depth but... then again so does the plating.

[FullPedalTrombonist]

Has anyone (Doug maybe you'd be best position to chime in particularly) laquered over the exterior finish of a piece? Its probably the thickest part of the instrument anyway so I don't imagine lacquer causing serious problems with acoustics. We obviously still lacquer parts of the instrument that come into contact with our body much more (e.g. neckpipe, cork barrel) so I can't imagine it causing any serious trouble. Of course, not talking about the rim, just the under part. It would wear out on the shank as far as the insertion depth but... then again so does the plating.

I’ve had a mouthpiece powder coated. Including the rim, though. No real point to it, but an interesting experiment

[quiethorn]

Okay, thanks for the tips. I have an old Faxx 6.5AL I experiment with various polishing things on.

[Posaunus]

I use Wrights silver polish.

Use sparingly and infrequently.

Do not use abrasives.

[Pre59]

I'd avoid using a silver polish if it has a tarnish inhibitor in it, because it leaves a coating which can feel quite "grippy" on the lips and can be hard to remove.

[TriJim]

Did not see this mentioned - try 'Cape Cod' metal polishing cloths - recommended by luxury watch fans. Quick and easy. Mouthpiece will shine like new and even removes some insertion marks - plus it has a nice 'vanilla' smell.

[Conn100HGuy]

Wright's Silver Cream

[Matt K]

I use Wrights silver polish.

Use sparingly and infrequently.

Do not use abrasives.

Given that I can't remember the last time I did it, I think I'm safe

[baileyman]

Tail of shirt.

[tbonesullivan]

I'd avoid using a silver polish if it has a tarnish inhibitor in it, because it leaves a coating which can feel quite "grippy" on the lips and can be hard to remove.

Which polish was that? I tried the 3M polish with "tarnishield" and didn't really notice anything. It's really good at keeping tarnish from coming back, as I think the "shield" is some light silicone. UMI used to sell a silicone - treated polishing cloth for lacquer.

[Pre59]

I'd avoid using a silver polish if it has a tarnish inhibitor in it, because it leaves a coating which can feel quite "grippy" on the lips and can be hard to remove.

Which polish was that? I tried the 3M polish with "tarnishield" and didn't really notice anything. It's really good at keeping tarnish from coming back, as I think the "shield" is some light silicone. UMI used to sell a silicone - treated polishing cloth for lacquer.

It was this https://www.goddardsshop.co.uk/goddards ... 25-ml.html

"This specially formulated Silver Polish contains a special ingredient which forms an invisible, non-toxic, chemical barrier that protects the surface of the silver from re-tarnishing."

[tbonesullivan]

It was this https://www.goddardsshop.co.uk/goddards ... 25-ml.html

"This specially formulated Silver Polish contains a special ingredient which forms an invisible, non-toxic, chemical barrier that protects the surface of the silver from re-tarnishing."

I looked at the MSDS, and the long term silver polish has a LOT of abrasives. It could be that was the reason that the mouthpiece was sticking more.

https://goddards.net.au/content/MSDS%20 ... Polish.pdf

[Pre59]

It was this https://www.goddardsshop.co.uk/goddards ... 25-ml.html

"This specially formulated Silver Polish contains a special ingredient which forms an invisible, non-toxic, chemical barrier that protects the surface of the silver from re-tarnishing."

I looked at the MSDS, and the long term silver polish has a LOT of abrasives. It could be that was the reason that the mouthpiece was sticking more.

https://goddards.net.au/content/MSDS%20 ... Polish.pdf

It could be, I don't know. But I did notice a lot of water beading when I gave the m/p a wash afterwards, if that means anything.
I only use hand soap and water to keep them clean now, and if unused pieces are stored in a dark place the tarnish is minimul anyway.

[tbonesullivan]

The water beading probably means there was silicone or some other type of material that leaves a "film" on the surface after polishing.

[Kbiggs]

I use Wright’s silver polish when needed. I wouldn’t use toothpaste—it’s too abrasive, and it doesn’t have the anti-tarnish properties that silver polishes have. They tarnish very quickly afterwards.

When I have polished my mpcs., I let them sit for a while, maybe overnight, and then wash them with normal dish or hand soap. Be sure to use a mouthpiece brush on the backbore to wash out any residual polish. If you’re not using a mpc. and you want to store it without tarnishing, there are anti-tarnish jewelry storage bags that work well.

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[quiethorn]

Thanks. It's not so much the tarnish I was asking about. It's how to get them to be as shiny and smooth as the day I opened them brand new in the box. Maybe it's not possible without just re-plating.

[harrisonreed]

The salt, baking soda, aluminum foil and very hot water bath will return an otherwise undamaged silver plated piece to bright and shiny. It might take several tries.

[Thrawn22]

Blue Magic.

[MTbassbone]

Flitz?

[quiethorn]

The salt, baking soda, aluminum foil and very hot water bath will return an otherwise undamaged silver plated piece to bright and shiny. It might take several tries.

I hadn't heard of this method until you mentioned earlier in the thread. Can you give more info?

[FullPedalTrombonist]

The salt, baking soda, aluminum foil and very hot water bath will return an otherwise undamaged silver plated piece to bright and shiny. It might take several tries.

I hadn't heard of this method until you mentioned earlier in the thread. Can you give more info?

And would it be advisable for gold plate?

[Gary]

Wright's Brass Polish.
But it won't make it look like it hasn't any plate loss if it has, well, plate loss.

[Doug Elliott]

Wrap the mouthpiece loosely in aluminum foil and put it in a mixture of very hot water and baking soda. The aluminum foil will turn black as the oxidation is transferred through electrolosis off of the silver and onto the aluminum. This works for anything silver. You may have to do it a few times. The foil has to be in contact with the silver.

I did it with a silver soprano trombone that was totally black.

[bigbandbone]

Wrap the mouthpiece loosely in aluminum foil and put it in a mixture of very hot water and baking soda. The aluminum foil will turn black as the oxidation is transferred through electrolosis off of the silver and onto the aluminum. This works for anything silver. You may have to do it a few times. The foil has to be in contact with the silver.

I did it with a silver soprano trombone that was totally black.

I used this method on entire instruments when I was doing restoration work for musical instrument museum. They were very particular about the restoration process. It doesn't "polish" the silver. It simply removes the tarnish.

[harrisonreed]

Adding table salt to the water also helps transfer the atoms. The sulphur can bond to the salt and it transfers to the aluminum.

If the mouthpiece is not scratched or damaged it will look brand new. If it's scratched or damaged, polishing might make it better, but it also might make it worse, surface wise.

[tbonesullivan]

I used this method on entire instruments when I was doing restoration work for musical instrument museum. They were very particular about the restoration process. It doesn't "polish" the silver. It simply removes the tarnish.

It doesn't really "remove" the tarnish. It turns the tarnish back into silver, and the sulphur ends up on the aluminum foil.

[Reedman1]

Rottenstone and a soft cloth works well, but probably removes more silver than you really want to.