How to maintain F trigger

[tboneman10]

I just got my first trombone with an f attachment (a Yamaha 446g) and I want to know how to clean out the rotary valve. On my student model I just give the whole thing a bath including the bell section a bath with dish soap about once a month. I can do the same with the slide section on the Yamaha but I'm not sure with rotary valve, can I just put it straight underwater or should I seek alternative methods of cleaning it? The rotor has string linkage so I don't quite know if would have to untie it every time I clean.

Thanks for your help!

[Burgerbob]

Just don't bathe the bell section.

[atopper333]

I tend to only clean my bell sections once every few months. When I do I used soap and water then follow up with wiping the horn down, propping up the tuning slides to allow them to drain and air out overnight. Also a little use of a brass saver as well. I don’t untie my rotor to clean, and have never had an issue with getting the string wet.

Mostly I just wipe down the exterior of the bell section after playing.

As to cleaning the rotor…I usually leave that alone until it slows down…at that point I disassemble, clean the rotor gently using valve oil and a soft towel and then reassemble. If it is still sluggish, I’d take it to a tech to have it professionally cleaned. Make sure you are comfortable with the thought of taking the assembly apart, if not, don’t do it. Also, I have been fortunate with the witness marks on the ones I have taken apart, but they are not always accurate!

[tboneman10]

I tend to only clean my bell sections once every few months. When I do I used soap and water then follow up with wiping the horn down, propping up the tuning slides to allow them to drain and air out overnight. Also a little use of a brass saver as well. I don’t untie my rotor to clean, and have never had an issue with getting the string wet.

Mostly I just wipe down the exterior of the bell section after playing.

As to cleaning the rotor…I usually leave that alone until it slows down…at that point I disassemble, clean the rotor gently using valve oil and a soft towel and then reassemble. If it is still sluggish, I’d take it to a tech to have it professionally cleaned. Make sure you are comfortable with the thought of taking the assembly apart, if not, don’t do it. Also, I have been fortunate with the witness marks on the ones I have taken apart, but they are not always accurate!

Thanks!

[timothy42b]

If you keep it well oiled it will last longer. (Nobody told me that when I bought my first F trigger horn.)

[ghmerrill]

As to cleaning the rotor…I usually leave that alone until it slows down…at that point I disassemble, clean the rotor gently using valve oil and a soft towel and then reassemble.

Short of disassembly, you can clean a rotor (be it on trombone, tuba, euph, whatever) pretty effectively by flushing detergent and water through it while working the rotor open and closed. Then thoroughly re-lubricate it. I never disassembled the rotors on my (rotor Cerveny BBb) tuba, but did clean it regularly in that manner and had no problems (over 20 years or so). Typically, the only reason for disassembling a tuba rotor (short of there being something obviously wrong with it) is to remove any deposits (e.g., calcium) that may have built up. There are some good Youtube videos by Jeff Funderburk showing how to disassemble/reassemble tuba rotary valves in great detail.

I take pretty much the same approach to my trombone rotors, and have had them apart only a couple of times when something didn't feel quite right. So "leave that alone until it slows down" is good advice, but I'd go further to the disassembly step only after I'd thoroughly cleaned the rotor sections by flushing and re-lubing. In addition, you have to know how to disassemble the rotor without harming it, and the how to reassemble it without destroying it. Not rocket science, but it does require a couple of simple tools and some cautious technique.

[atopper333]

In addition, you have to know how to disassemble the rotor without harming it, and the how to reassemble it without destroying it. Not rocket science, but it does require a couple of simple tools and some cautious technique.

Agree with everything in the entire post from @ghmerrill…forgot about attempting to flush first!

Also, emphasis on this from ghmerrill. I can’t stress being cautious enough. The materials involved in the construction of the rotor can be quite soft in comparison to the tools in your normal tool box. Always take it slow and don’t surpass your limitations. It’s way cheaper to take your horn into a tech to get it sorted out than having to repair a rotor assembly.