Thanks to a seller on this forum, I am a happy new owner of a Selmer Bolero with f-attachment. I'm still getting used to it, but the issue I'm having is the linkage, which despite oiling and greasing, is still clanky. It's the linkage itself, not the rubber bumpers.
Most likely, I will end up having a tech modify it, but to what? String? I'm open to ideas. My goal is for a quiet linkage with a shorter throw. I'm not crazy about the thumb-over-the-brace, but with a shorter throw will be OK.
(And yes, I did notice that it is reversed from any other manufacturer)
Selmer Bolero linkage
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Mamaposaune
- Posts: 497
- Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2018 12:48 pm
- Location: Central Jersey
Selmer Bolero linkage
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ithinknot
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2020 3:40 pm
Re: Selmer Bolero linkage
Clank:
Eliminate lost motion/excess play everywhere. On a horn of this age, almost everything usually benefits from a little attention - swedge/shim the lever saddle and pivot, replace the Delrin (? ...or at least that's what I'd replace it with) linkage plate if its holes are widened, swedge the rotor bearings and adjust the top plate seating.
Throw:
Can you adjust your grip (perhaps in conjuction with a Neotech grip that raises the palm of your hand relative to the slide) so that you're operating the lever nearer its pivot point, where the travel is shorter?
An old-style-3BF-inspired lever and mechanical linkage with the saddle below the thumb (mounted on the slide receiver) would have a shorter throw because of the relative proximity of the pivot point, but it might be less comfortable to operate, and it puts the linkage even closer to your face.
A string linkage and new lever reusing the current lever saddle position could give a shorter throw, but you'd have to significantly modify or replace the rotor stop arm. (Look at the Holton TR159 / 150 lever design for ideas.) If you go down this route I'd reverse the direction of rotation while you're at it.
I'd try the Neotech first - it's a cheap experiment and might well be enough.
Eliminate lost motion/excess play everywhere. On a horn of this age, almost everything usually benefits from a little attention - swedge/shim the lever saddle and pivot, replace the Delrin (? ...or at least that's what I'd replace it with) linkage plate if its holes are widened, swedge the rotor bearings and adjust the top plate seating.
Throw:
Can you adjust your grip (perhaps in conjuction with a Neotech grip that raises the palm of your hand relative to the slide) so that you're operating the lever nearer its pivot point, where the travel is shorter?
An old-style-3BF-inspired lever and mechanical linkage with the saddle below the thumb (mounted on the slide receiver) would have a shorter throw because of the relative proximity of the pivot point, but it might be less comfortable to operate, and it puts the linkage even closer to your face.
A string linkage and new lever reusing the current lever saddle position could give a shorter throw, but you'd have to significantly modify or replace the rotor stop arm. (Look at the Holton TR159 / 150 lever design for ideas.) If you go down this route I'd reverse the direction of rotation while you're at it.
I'd try the Neotech first - it's a cheap experiment and might well be enough.