Shires rotor valve

[JKBones]

Has anyone here had experience with removing a Shires rotor valve? I have removed my Bach 42 valve several times for cleaning but the Shires one doesn't seem to come out the same way. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Burgerbob]

Should be the same. Take off valve cap, unscrew stop arm, take stop arm off, lightly tap spindle to knock out the backing plate, valve can come out.

[ChadA]

I’ve taken Shires bass rotors many times. Not any different than other rotors I’ve taken apart.

[JKBones]

Ok, thanks for the responses.

[JKBones]

I disconnected the trigger arm and I can’t get the silver part off so that I can gently knock the valve out. When I do this on my Bach 42 the arm comes completely off the spindle. I have attached pictures of what I am talking about. I don’t want to break anything.

[Burgerbob]

The stop arm can be difficult to get off. A tech can chime in here with what the best method is.

[brassmedic]

It's just a friction fit. The only difference is Bach/Conn etc. use a flat side on the spindle, while Shires uses a keyway slot. The part you are calling the "silver part" is the stop arm. You shouldn't be able to just pull the stop arm off. If you could on your other horn then it was either worn out or not tightened down enough.

There are a couple ways to do it. Safest is to get a drift punch that fits inside of the inner diameter of the stop arm, place it against the spindle, and tap the end with a small hammer. This will push the spindle out of the stop arm and push the bearing plate off the other end. (Make sure you took the valve cap off, obviously.) Another way is to put the stop arm screw into its hole, but backed off a little bit. Then tap on the screw and you will push the spindle out of the stop arm. You have to be careful doing it this way, though, because you can break the screw head off. (Ask me how I know .) A third way, not recommended, is to pry the stop arm off with the tip of a flat head screwdriver. Very easy to damage things that way, so I would recommend the tapping method.

[JKBones]

Thanks I will try that.

[tbonesullivan]

A good "drift punch" I have used is a wooden dowel. Chopsticks work GREAT.

[PauloDC]

Does this work with a Try-bore valve? I'm trying to disassembly mine but I can't get the stop arm off

[wayne88ny]

Loosen the screw a few turns so there's a gap (about 3/16") between the screw and the stop arm (the silver piece), (don't screw it all the way out). Tap on the screw. This will push the backing plate down and the stop arm up. Repeat as needed, leaving a smaller gap (about 1/16") each time.

[elmsandr]

Does this work with a Try-bore valve? I'm trying to disassembly mine but I can't get the stop arm off

Yes. But the stop arms on my Trubores were the hardest to remove I have ever had on any horn. (Still only took about 5min, but they were on goodentite)

Cheers,
Andy

[walldaja]

All this talk of taking the rotor out must have been overheard by my horn. Suddenly noticed the valve was really stiff but thanks to the monster spring Shires put on it it still returned well.

Broke down and took it apart and cleaned it. Except for the noted linkage everything came out quite easily. Now I have to replace a set of my wife's chopsticks.

Oh my goodness, I forgot how slick this valve worked after I reassembled it. I guess a rotor is a lot like a frog in a pan of lukewarm water on top of the stove with the temperature going up. Suddenly it's a big problem but you never notice it coming.

[walldaja]

BTW, I left the linkage intact and only took the screw out. Used the chopstick as a drift to force rotor out with a few gentle taps with a plastic hammer.