Reynolds slide-to-bell tenon

[Sammytbone]

A mentor and great friend of mine just passed his high school daily player horn on to me. It’s a Reynolds of some sort (it’s on the smaller side…. 2B ish). It’s been well used and has been held on to for sentimental reasons.

The bell to slide tenon is COMICALLY loose, as in frictionless, while it does have a screw lock. As a guy with repair work experience, I know it’s the correct and original bell and slide.

Is this something that can be fixed with non original parts? I’m in the Hudson valley, north of NYC.

[BGuttman]

Quick and dirty: put a layer or two of Plumber's Teflon tape on the tenon.

Ideally, you need to build up the tenon size, which can be done by electroplating (but that's a job for a specialist).

Realistically, you could replace both the tenon and the receiver with newer parts (not necessarily Reynolds). In this case you lose ALL compatibility with other Reynolds instruments, but I doubt you will want to use these parts anywhere but with each other.

[Sammytbone]

I wish I could! My edwards large bore is worn out after 20+ years, and I am able to limp along with Teflon tape. This is a whole ‘nother universe. The bell is essentially freely spinning.

[Doug Elliott]

I have a Reynolds that size right now that a student asked me to sell. It's almost there too, there's friction but it's on the verge of slipping. A tech can figure out which side is bottoming out and file some off the end.

[CharlieB]

Aluminum tape on the tenon.
This stuff:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape ... /100030120
Thickness = 0.003"
One layer, meticulously fit around tenon using razor blade.
Backs the tenon out 1/8" to 1/4" from bottoming out in the receiver, depending on the degree of wear.

[jorymil]

How does the aluminum tape play with the brass tenon/receiver? Different metals + conductive liquid = battery. And batteries work by removing material from one terminal and transferring it to the other. But the rate of that transfer... unsure of that.