Replacing gooseneck with part of the valve section COMPLETED

[Elow]

Im looking to convert a 448g to a straight horn, so im looking for a 447g gooseneck. I did a quick google search and couldnt find anything, anyone know where i can order one?

[BGuttman]

I'd bet the 681 or 610 gooseneck would work fine You might even do better finding a full bell section for a 647, 681, or 610.

[Elow]

Just had an idea, probably stupid but i really want to try it. I want to cut up a piece of the f attachment and connect it to the ferrel and be done with it. I would obviously need to take measurements and what not, but what do you guys think will be the hardest part? I can solder to some degree, but i can surely solder this. The problem i might have is the curve in the goose neck, not sure if it will affect the angle of how it attaches. My thought process is since im already going to replace the gooseneck and remove the valve section, i can try this first. This was thought up in the 5 minutes my phone was dead, so not exactly foolproof.

[harrisonreed]

Aren't F attachments usually a different bore size than the rest of the horn?

[Burgerbob]

Goosenecks are also a tapered part, not straight tubing.

[BGuttman]

Yamaha tombones share a lot of common parts. I've never done it, but you can look at the parts list and see what is common between the 447, 647, 681, and 610 (and their F-attachment cousins). There is a different location for the bell bace between an F-attachment and a staight so that may require some mods as well.

If you are looking for an exercise to help you lean to solder, this may be a reasonable project. If you just want to make a 447, just getting a bell section as I mentioned above will be more time effective.

[pfrancis]

Im looking to convert a 448g to a straight horn, so im looking for a 447g gooseneck. I did a quick google search and couldnt find anything, anyone know where i can order one?

From Yamaha? I just checked and they have them “in stock” which shouldn’t be more than a week to you. The price was also very friendly. I am assuming you have access to Yamaha parts based on your other posts that indicate you work in a repair shop.

[Elow]

If you are looking for an exercise to help you lean to solder, this may be a reasonable project. If you just want to make a 447, just getting a bell section as I mentioned above will be more time effective.

Ill probably just do that

[Elow]

Ok so i couldn’t wait and i just went my original plan. It turned out pretty well. The tuning slide moves and it plays. Ill post pictures when i buff it on monday

[Crazy4Tbone86]

If you want to do this with high quality, get you hands on the proper gooseneck. The gooseneck on a 447G is Yamaha part # D0744201. The problem is that most slide receivers on F attachment horns are longer than the slide receivers on straight horns. To do this correctly you should get the 447G slide receiver as well, which is Yamaha part # D0430615. By this time you have probably figured out (and Bruce already stated it) that the bell brace on a straight horn is mounted closer to the bell rim, so you would need to shift that and reshape the diamond brace as well. At least you will not need to buy a new part to do that correctly.

If you contact your closest Yamaha dealer, they can order these parts for you. The moral of the story here is two-fold: 1. If you want the job done well, get the proper parts or be very good at fabricating them yourself. 2. Many times a "simple modification" is not so simple. Always think about the construction of the instrument and how changing one part might have a domino effect on the parts around it.

[Elow]

If you want to do this with high quality, get you hands on the proper gooseneck. The gooseneck on a 447G is Yamaha part # D0744201. The problem is that most slide receivers on F attachment horns are longer than the slide receivers on straight horns. To do this correctly you should get the 447G slide receiver as well, which is Yamaha part # D0430615. By this time you have probably figured out (and Bruce already stated it) that the bell brace on a straight horn is mounted closer to the bell rim, so you would need to shift that and reshape the diamond brace as well. At least you will not need to buy a new part to do that correctly.

If you contact your closest Yamaha dealer, they can order these parts for you. The moral of the story here is two-fold: 1. If you want the job done well, get the proper parts or be very good at fabricating them yourself. 2. Many times a "simple modification" is not so simple. Always think about the construction of the instrument and how changing one part might have a domino effect on the parts around it.

Well, a little late. It doesn’t have to be a stellar job just good enough for me to play, which it does. I’m using the trigger as a thumb test instead of moving the whole brace. I will have to add a counterweight or something though as it is pretty nose heavy. If i has plans on selling it i probably would just have my tech do all of that, but as something to just play around with. I’m happy with the outcome, still need to buff it though.

[Elow]

Finished product... ish. Still need to add a brace and counterweight but i’m happy-ish with the results. Still probably not going to play it very much but was a fun project. It’s not like i played it before anyways.

[Amconk]

Looks like you might have left the neck a bit long! Tuning slide is a bit far out on the bell side. A good start though!definitely need a cross brace and a counterweight. Then get some dent balls and a flexible driver and get to work on that tuning slide!

[Elow]

Looks like you might have left the neck a bit long! Tuning slide is a bit far out on the bell side. A good start though!definitely need a cross brace and a counterweight. Then get some dent balls and a flexible driver and get to work on that tuning slide!

Yeah the tuning slide is a bit ugly. Also i was told to add an inch to the tuning slide to compensate for the bend in the rotor.

[elmsandr]

Looks like you might have left the neck a bit long! Tuning slide is a bit far out on the bell side. A good start though!definitely need a cross brace and a counterweight. Then get some dent balls and a flexible driver and get to work on that tuning slide!

Yeah the tuning slide is a bit ugly. Also i was told to add an inch to the tuning slide to compensate for the bend in the rotor.

An inch for the rotor? Uh... I'm not sure about the instincts of who is instructing you. Take a piece of string and compare a horn with and without a rotor... There isn't an inch inside the rotor.

But anyway, the best way to learn this is by doing, and you are certainly doing. For fun, join the "Frankentuba" Facebook group and see a wide variety of home-grown repairs. Note: methods there are most certainly not endorsed without careful examination... not all members are good at what they do.

Cheers,
Andy

[Elow]

Yeah the tuning slide is a bit ugly. Also i was told to add an inch to the tuning slide to compensate for the bend in the rotor.

An inch for the rotor? Uh... I'm not sure about the instincts of who is instructing you. Take a piece of string and compare a horn with and without a rotor... There isn't an inch inside the rotor.

But anyway, the best way to learn this is by doing, and you are certainly doing. For fun, join the "Frankentuba" Facebook group and see a wide variety of home-grown repairs. Note: methods there are most certainly not endorsed without careful examination... not all members are good at what they do.

Cheers,
Andy

Checked the email and he said about a centimeter, oops. I still have to pull out to tune so it didn’t hurt anything.